The art form, and the Kochi evening
What is Kathakali? What to expect in Kochi
Kathakali explained: the painted faces, hand gestures, drums and stories, plus how a Kochi evening show runs, how long it lasts and who it suits.
See Kochi show dates on GetYourGuide ↗Quick answer
Kathakali is Kerala's classical dance-drama, in which actors with painted faces tell a story from the Hindu epics without speaking, using hand gestures and facial expressions while two singers and a few drums carry the sound. The Kochi evening is a staged version for visitors: about two hours for Kathakali with a makeup demonstration, or about three hours with Kalaripayattu and Theyyam added, with English-language guidance.
What Kathakali is
Kathakali is a dance-drama from Kerala. The name joins katha, story, and kali, play. Actors in painted faces and large costumes tell a story from the Hindu epics without speaking. Their hands and faces carry the words, while two singers and a small group of drummers carry the sound. Kerala Tourism describes a tradition with strict training and presentation patterns, and artists train for years before their stage debut. It was traditionally performed by men, and women now take roles at all levels.
Where it comes from
Kerala Tourism says Kathakali is believed to have evolved in the 17th century from Ramanattam, a Ramayana-based drama attributed to the King of Kottarakkara. Wikipedia places its developed form in the 16th and 17th centuries, with roots in older temple and folk arts such as Krishnanattam. Kathakali later took body movement from Kalaripayattu and gesture from Koodiyattam. In the early 20th century the Kerala Kalamandalam school, in Thrissur district, helped bring it back from near-extinction, and it still teaches the art today.
The face and the colours
The face tells you who a character is before they move. Kerala Tourism lists five main types of attire, and each reflects the character's basic nature. For some characters a raised white frame called the chutti runs along the jaw. It was once made of rice paste and is now made of paper, and applying it takes hours. The eyes are reddened, traditionally with natural herbs, so eye movements show from a distance.
- Pacha: green face, for heroic, noble characters
- Kathi: for powerful anti-heroes, often seen in battle
- Kari: black face, for hunters and forest dwellers
- Thadi: a coloured beard, red for wicked, white for refined
- Minukku: yellow face, for women, sages and messengers
Read next: Kathakali Makeup and Costume: Reading the Painted Face
The hands, the eyes and the nine moods
Kathakali uses a sign language. Wikipedia counts 24 main mudras, or hand gestures, and many minor ones, drawn mainly from a text called the Hastha Lakshanadeepika. The face works through nine moods, the navarasas: love, comedy, pity, anger, heroism, fear, disgust, wonder and peace. Kerala Tourism names the use of the eyes, strong rhythmic footwork and unusual body movements as distinctive features. You don't need to learn any of it beforehand. The English-language guidance on the Kochi show is there to help you follow.
What you'll hear
Two singers stand behind the actors. The main singer is called the Ponnani, and the second repeats the verses. The songs are in a style called Abhinaya Sangeetham, music for acting. The main drums are the chenda, a cylinder played with curved sticks, and the maddalam, a barrel drum. The chengila, a brass instrument, and the ilathalam, cymbals, add to them. For special effects there are extra chendas, the edaykka, an hourglass drum, and a conch. The drums set the rhythm and mood of each scene.
The stories
A Kathakali play is called an attakatha. Plays draw on the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Puranas. Wikipedia says over five hundred exist and about four dozen are performed regularly. Traditionally a performance ran overnight, and some stories were told over several nights, announced each evening by a drum passage called kelikottu. Today it's often a few hours in a hall or on a stage. The booking page for the Kochi show doesn't say which episode you will see, only that the stories come from the epics, so ask the guide on the night.
How a full performance unfolds
A traditional performance starts with the artists tuning their instruments and warming up on the drums, which tells the arriving audience that things are getting ready. Next come two preliminary dances, the thodayam and the purappadu, which show pure skill and movement rather than story. Then the drama begins. Wikipedia notes that characters can enter in different ways: straight on, through the audience led by torchbearers, or slowly revealed behind a curtain, a device often used for characters with hidden, dangerous intentions. Short Kochi formats may not include every stage.
How the Kochi evening runs
The Kathakali option with a makeup demonstration lasts about two hours: you watch the demonstration first, then the performance. The three-art evening lasts about three hours and adds Kalaripayattu and Theyyam. The performance is staged under traditional oil lamps, in a small group, with English-language guidance, and the show runs daily. The booking calendar shows the start time for your date and option, so none is given here. After the final performance there's time to meet the performers and take photographs.
Getting there and making an evening of it
On a transfer option, a driver collects you from your hotel in Kochi or Ernakulam and takes you back after the show. Otherwise you go to the meeting point shown on the booking page, which doesn't name the theatre, so check the map first. Fort Kochi, a prominent tourist destination, is linked to Ernakulam by road and by water. A landmark that draws many visitors is the row of Chinese fishing nets on the waterfront, believed to have been introduced by Chinese traders in the early 14th century.
Dress, photos and access
Wear comfortable clothes. Photography is allowed but flash photography is not, so switch the flash off before you go in. Food and drinks aren't included in any option, so eat before or after. The show isn't suitable for wheelchair users. The booking page gives no minimum age, so if you're bringing young children and it matters to you, check with the booking support first.
Who this isn't for
If you want a traditional Kathakali night from dusk onwards, a two or three hour show is a shorter format. The sung verses are in Sanskritised Malayalam, and English-language guidance is provided, but the booking page doesn't mention a running translation, so you follow the story through gesture, not words. And if you want a full-length named play, note that the booking page doesn't say which episode is staged.
Frequently asked questions
What is Kathakali?
Kathakali is a classical dance-drama from Kerala. Actors in painted faces and large costumes tell stories from the Hindu epics through hand gestures and facial expressions, while singers and drummers provide the sound. The name means story-play.
How long is a Kathakali show?
Traditionally it ran overnight. Wikipedia says modern productions are typically three to four hours. The Kochi options run about two hours for Kathakali with a makeup demonstration, or about three hours with Kalaripayattu and Theyyam added.
Do Kathakali actors speak?
No. The actors use hand gestures and facial expressions, and two singers behind them deliver the verses. Kathakali has about 24 main mudras and nine facial moods.
Why are Kathakali faces green?
Green marks the pacha type: heroic, noble and generous characters. Other types use other colours, such as black for hunters and forest dwellers, and yellow for women and sages. Kerala Tourism lists five main types.
Do I need to understand Malayalam?
No. The sung verses are in Sanskritised Malayalam, but the story is carried by gesture and expression. English-language guidance is provided on the Kochi show.
Is Kathakali the same as Kathak?
No. Kathak is a classical dance from North India with simpler costume and no painted masks. Kathakali comes from Kerala and is known for its elaborate makeup, costumes and martial-art-influenced movement.
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